Q: Where to go in Scotland if you've only got 5 days - Friday to Tuesday to do it in & Wales play Scotland (Rugby) on the Sunday? A: Loch Lomond & the Trosachs, Crainlarich, Ben More Lodge! It's only a 7 hour drive to Crainlarich from Tregaron... so we arrived around 1am. The "shed" was warm & it didn't take us long to fall asleep. To only problem with B&B, as oposed to self catering, is that you can't leave early. Breakfast was 8-9am so we weren't ready to leave before 9am on the first morning. We'd decided to "do" Ben More first... for some reason we also decided to walk the 2 miles down the road to the start!?! It looks a steep slog up Ben More from the road... & it was! After a sweaty ascent the steep grassy slopes give way to rock & snow & then up the short summit cone to the trig point. The snow on top was crunchy but didn't require crampons. We saw a couple of chaps on the top, miserable individuals who wouldn't say hello! The decent to the coll was fun with a fair bit of "skiing", the snow helped to even the ground out a bit. From the coll to the top of Stob Binnein was just a slog, dropped the rucksacks behind a boulder & went up & down as quick as poss.
The decent from the Beallach to the track was about 450m & steep. By the time we reached the road we were, well I was anyway, regretting walking to the start. 2 miles on tarmac at the end of the day is no joke... but it could be worse. Ben Vorlich was a quick day, because Wales were playing Scotland at 3 o'clock. Parked at Inverugulas & hoofed it 2 miles (again!) down the road & up the access road towards the dam at Loch Sloy. From the road we looked up to the coll above... "that dosen't look like it'll take an hour" says I to Aid. "Remember we're in Scotland man" he says, "everythings bigger!" ... He was right, 500m up & an hour later we stood at the coll, with another 200m up & over 1km to the top I was starting to worry about missing the rugby. After speed marching, as best I can these days, up from the coll & back - the weather was bad on top anyway, blowing a hoolie & poor vizibility - we ecended quickly back to the road. A swift, shin aching march back to the car saw us arrive back at the lodge having missed the first 5 minutes of the match. Not bad.
Our third day saw us heading up the glen from the A82 towards Cruach Ardrain. A bimble up the track, a steep climb up to the ridge & then a long walk along grass & heather untill a final steep section of snow & rock to the top. Thank you whoever sculpted the "seat" out of the snow near the top, it was a great spot for some grub & the views were the best we'd had in 3 days. It was an easy walk, steep to begin with, down to the col & up to Beinn Tulaichean, again dropped our rucksaks in the coll for collection on way back. We decided to go bach via Stob Gals Bheag, well to contour around underneath it anyway. I was still harbouring ambitions of doing another 2 monroes at this point. We'd seen some deer fur & tracks about in the snow but I was still surprised when, rounding a boulder, I found a deer carcas. I've always hoped to find a set of antlers "in the wild" & I was like a little boy as I turned the skull over to find it was a male & had two lovely antlers with four points each. One had broken off, I suppose the deer had fallen over the cliff, but detaching the other took some time which meant i didn't have time for the other Monroes. Much to Aidan's horror I insisted on taking the antlers home in his car. Thanks Aid.
It was a great short break. Totals of 45Km of walking & 3673m of ascent/descent. I''d thoroughly recommend the area for walking though I expect it gets really busy in the summer! |
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Had another good day out on Cadair idris on the 2nd of January... couldn't quite make it out on the 1st! My Dad & cousin Deri for company. The path up from Minffordd is a classic, winding steeply up through the trees until you reach a fork in the path. Right is Mynydd Moel, our decent for the day, & left is on up towards llyn y cau.
It was quite chilly on the ridge. The wind was gusting around 25-35mph & we had a few hail showers... but nothing as exciting as snow
There were quite a few people out, as you'd expect on around new year, but we didn't share the shelter of the hut at the top with more than a few at a time... yes we did have a leisurely lunch... after a spot of catalogue posing at the trig point!
It was nice to get out after the Christmas binge eating & drinking (not too much of the drinking obviously!) A lovely walk off the plateau with some amazing clouds, wish I had a better camera.
Please note! The map below is for illustration purposes only & is NOT meant as an aid to navigation. You should always have an OS, BMC or Harvey map of the area you will be walking in & know how to use it!
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Well Nordenskjold is ‘in the bag’ so I guess the cat can be let out of It has for long been assumed that Christian de Marliave had made the first whom I do not know personally (See Note). I ran out of time before departing on this -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With special thanks to DMM International back in Wales. A great company that had the foresight to continue manufacturing on home soil. A company that never lost its balance in the first place, long before ‘re-balancing’ of the economy became vogue. Also thanks to Rich Howarth at High Latitudes for sat phone comms, Wild Country for a bomb proof heavy duty tent at an achievable mortgage rate and Solar Gadget.com for their Power Monkey Extreme battery / solar panel charger on similar terms. Finally of course Pelagic Australis, the boat guaranteed to reach places other boats cannot reach. Miles, Laura and Dave, one of those professional crews that make a difficult job look easy. The great company of Jules, Jim, Bob and Marcello who made the whole voyage such a joy. Pat and Sarah at King Edward point and Richard McKee back in Stanley. Skip, we owe you a pint, for those boots! And last but by no means least a big thanks to Rhydian & Rowan at I.C.Y Expeditions for providing the tracker & blogging the whole trip for us. If you can keep track of an expedition to South Georgia then keeping track of young people on your DofE expeditions should be a piece of cake.
Crag Jones... somewhere in the south seas 3/12/2011
* Crag subsequent to this article has managed to get hold of Christian de Marliave and reports that Christian had in fact got very close to the summit, effectively climbing the mountain, only stopping below the final 30meteres because it was a steep summit ice ‘mushroom’ that was to dangerous for him to climb on his own. As tends to happen over the years, the configuration of such icy summit mushrooms has altered considerably and did not present Crag and Richard Spillett with any difficulties for their final step to the summit. |
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Here's the latest track log showing the team making good time down the glacier. I'm assuming the skiing is good!
I bet they're looking forward to some decent grup & a good kip. |
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So, on Friday night we spoke to Crag and they were comfortably at their advanced base camp. They were well settled in a secure place, and had a good forecast to go for the peak yesterday. We know that they had planned to depart for the summit at 0200 local on Saturday morning and expected to be around 24hrs before they got back to camp. Crag said they would bivvy on the way down if necessary, but they would try to push all the way there and back. Here on board the yacht, we were watching the weather all day. It was calm, and the cloud cover was high, and so we decided that if they didn't manage to make it to the top, they had encountered a problem that they hadn't foreseen - we prayed that the weather didn't stop them. As predicted, we didn't get our 8pm phone call so we assume they did go for it. This morning we received an email from the spot tracker. 'All OK here' is all it says! So, our assumption now is that they are both well and in a safe place. We still don't know if the mountain has been climbed or if they even went for it, but our fingers are crossed. We have to wait now until the 8pm phone call tonight to find out for certain what the situation is. |
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Pop up current time in South Georgia & Sandwich islands Wow.... I'm excited about the latest from our tracker in South Georgia. As you know one of our trackers is accompanying the British Nordenskjold Expedition. I'm watching them live as they go for the summit! (I hope!) This is the live view from this link
Allowing for some margin of error in the accuracy of the satellite fix & the time delay ... they could have already reached the summit...... OR... are they settling in for the night? the weather forecast is good for tonight, tomorrow & Monday so maybe they're not in a hurry. Who knows.
Cant wait to ask about the strange track log (above) it seems to suggest they went sight seeing! Maybe I.C.Y will have to take them out on Nav training before they return Come on the lads!!! |
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It's been 5 days since we dropped Crag and Richard off at the bottom of the Nordenskold Glacier. They left the boat on a grey evening, cold and drizzly, but a gentle breeze which meant it was possible to land them on the beach. We manage to speak to them on the Iridium phone most evenings and so we have a daily update of their position. It took them 2 days to get all their things up to the snow line, and just as they started making progress up the glacier Crag managed to rip the bottom off his boots. Luckily we have a spare pair on board so we took them to the beach and left them for Crag to collect. We didn't actually see him as he had quite a trek to come all the way down again, but we know that he has collected them now and they are well on their way again.
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Correction for the Blog. The Webber Grill Co is owned by the Steven Brothers who are aboard not Webber Brothers. Yhey are 2 of 12 siblings!
Blog Text 3: 16 November
We have had steady sailing in calm conditions (by Southern Ocean standards that is) with winds no more than 35 knots, All of the familiar birds still ply austral skies. No Albatross has been shot so we have yet to see the ice that was here, the ice that was there, the ice that was all around, it neither roars or howls, nor moans or growls, no noises in a sound;. Yet. We expect to reach bird sound by 9 this morning. It’s 3am now and I have just finished the graveyard watch. It was cold and grey, with worrying fog banks but no ice bergs lurked within as they did 2 years ago. We do cheat by the way by using a radar as well, but even that does not show up the ‘growlers’ that lurk just on the surface. The next watch has taken over and I’m cosyed up next to the diesel stove. Soon to snu ggling down into my scratcher, The day before yesterday playful dolphins accompanied us for many hours, racing around us at will.
Yesterday afternoon we passed the magnificent Shag Rocks towering out of a misty sea. Sometimes we have sailed straight between them, not this time though. I remembered the time I was battling past them on a dark and stormy night going back the other way. On that occasion I was the sole escort on a Russian long liner we had arrested for poaching. The patrol ship followed behind when its engine had not broken down. It was a rather lonesome voyage as understandably I was not their most popular passenger. Fortunately their sense of fate preserved me on that occasion. My filleting knife under the pillow was an unnecessary precaution. Their engine was so knackered it took us a week to reach the Falkland Islands but even that felt quick compared to the following due process of the law. < /p>
Suddenly breaking water to one side. Christ, is it Black Rock! It’s a horrible shoal that prowls near these parts. No, a Whale, a big Sei Whale. It stayed with us for half an hour until both it’s curiosity and our wonder wore off.
Down below then, into the Pelagic’s magnificent workshop. We could probably build another boat from within should we suffer a slow sinking, and spring forth once more. This time though its to sharpen our spade. This too has fashioned a refuge anew on several occasions when our tents have been destroyed. I never travel these parts without it these days. Its biding its time, a gleaming edge, ready to dig a snow hole in iron hard neve should it be needed. Crampons and ice axes next. A bit of work now might mean easy efficient progress when we are climbing steep ice, instead of the all to usual frustrating smashing of dinner plates and cramping hands. Finally the reglueing of skins onto skis. The old glue might come unstuck and so would we!
The weather is forecast to hold fair up to the time we plan to be dropped off then its turning foul for three days. Probably best to get ourselves ashore though. Its fatal to cling to the comfort of the boat though, little is usually achieved if that state of mind sets in.
News from home! Owen’s friend Isabella came to tea. They baked cakes together. He’s very exited about going to be an evacuee next week. Has the Euro crisis got that bad? I better not tell Richard. Eleanors friend Catriona is coming to stay as well. I wonder at the chaos and work that Sian must be calmly navigating. Such is the life of a runaway expeditioner. I miss you all dearly mind. Though I'll focus on what we have chosen to do here for a while I think of you all and look carefully to each step.
Well, the scratcher calls. I’m on watch again in less than 5 hours.
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This is today's news from Crag & the team aboard the Pelagic...
So here we are ploughing our way towards the promised land. Wind and weather were good for a quick departure from the Falkland Islands so there was little time to catch up with people. We were so busy making sure we had everything, and checking gear, buying food and stowing everything aboard. We were casting off before we knew it. At least I was able to stand up this time as we left through the 'Narrows'. I remember going through there a few years ago on my knees, unable to stand up after a particular memorable party aboard Pelagic. A saucepan banging band dancing on the table clanged their last as the sun rose. They chucked our lines aboard and we sailed SW for Argentina. Its East this time, 800 miles at about 180 miles every 24 hours. There were kind gentle winds to start with, always the best for delicate stomachs! Now that we are into our regular watches and the westerlies have strengthened we are running ahead at a good 8 knots. Dont worry all this will be completely unintelligible soon as me nautical lexicon, claws me on a forard tack. Har harrrrgh! Its only a pretence as I'm as confused as ever once I get on a boat. Gradually what rope does what is coming back to me under the watchful eye of Miles the Skipper and Laura his Mate (and wife!), and Dave the 2nd. They are all very calm, no shouters to panic their crew. Luckily for them everyone else bar Richard are experienced sailors and even he is off to a flying start, getting stuck in wherever required. With only gradually strengthening winds it has given us the chance to go through manoeuvres without too much of a panic which should stand us in good stead if things get tricky. The guys who are going to cruise around the island once Richard and I are dropped off are the Webber brothers, Jim and Bob from Chicago, Julian Fox from London and Marcelo from Brazil. Julian a corporate management head-hunter has great fun discussing the various forms of management 'puddins' a business like theirs might end up with. Its his job to try and help companies get the right type of person into the right role. When not bashing round pegs into round holes he loves to sail, ski and climb. If one of us breaks a leg he's promised to lend a hand dragging a sledge stretcher back to the coast. Marcelo is a Pilot, the sort that guides boats into safe harbours along the NE coast of Brazil. Another good man to have aboard, he is at ease with the sailing. Well its off to weld another section onto our Barbie'n'Charcoal sledge, we'll need another for the meat; no, we'll march up a few penguins instead, under their own steam.---- Delivered via Satellite Phone using GMN XGate |
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The intrepid team are all at sea now, having left the Falkland islands they're heading for South Georgia. Follow this link to see where the Pelagic is now...
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Well our tracker is having an interesting journey so far.... As I said, it's on an expedition to South Georgia... & since leaving Heathrow on Thursday it's visited Madrid & then flown on to Santiago in Chile...
From Santiago it flew on to Punta Arenas & then on to Stanley on the Falkland Islands
where it's now waiting for a yacht to South Georgia. |
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One of our trackers is winging it's way south... We're proud sponsors of a British expedition to South Georgia. The British Nordenskjold Expedition will attempt to climb Nordenskjold a 2354 M (7723ft) peak on South Georgia... See here for the last attempt http://www.pelagic.co.uk/gallery009_sgeorgia_1109/index.htm
The team left today & we'll be following their progress with keen interest over the next month or so. Keep checking back for updates. Below is a description of the expedition from Crag Jones
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Tregaron United Kingdom |
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